December 13, 2011

Giraffe Beanie with Earflaps

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By JC Designs
Frog Beanie being model of by one of my son's stuff animal. :)
SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
newborn - 18 months old

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 5.0mm & 5.5mm
*Worsted weight yarn: Yellow (107yds) and Beige (30yds)
*2 medium Black Buttons
*Felt: yellow
*Stitch Markers
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread

GAUGE
  At the end of round 9, laying flat = 4 ¾ inches in diameter. Don’t forget to check your gauge. :)

PATTERN NOTES
  Their's no need to slip stitch and/or chain when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

SHAPING THE BEANIE yellow with the 5.5mm hook
  Rnd 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 9: sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc around (54)
Sizes 6-12 months:
  Rnd 10:  sc in next 8sc, 2sc in next sc around (60)
  Rnd 11: sc in next 9sc, 2sc in next sc around (66)
Sizes 12-18 months:
   Rnd 12: sc in next 10sc, 2sc in next sc around (72)
   Rnd 13: sc in next 11sc, 2sc in next sc around (78)
All Sizes:
  Rnd 12-22 (14-24): sc in each sc around (66 or 78)
Place marker at 21 & 49 sc (24 & 55). F/O and weave in ends.

SHAPE EARFLAPS yellow with the 5.5mm hook
  Row 1: Join the yarn at first marker with sl st, ch1, sc in next 11sc, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 2: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 8sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 3: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 4: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 5: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 6: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 7: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 8: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 9: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 10: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 11: dec over next 2sc twice (2)
F/O and weave in ends.
Join yarn at the second marker with sl st. Repeat above for the second earflap.

CONTRAST EDGING beige with 5.5mm hook
Join CC at any st along the edge with sl st. Sc around the entire edge including the earflaps.
F/O and weave in ends.

let's call this the MOUTH piece beige with the 5.0mm hook
  Rnd 1: 4sc in Magic Ring, ch1, turn (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next sc, ch1, turn (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next 2sc, ch1, turn (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next 3sc, ch1, turn (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next 2sc, sc in next 4sc, ch1, turn (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around, ch1, turn (16)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around, ch1, turn (20)
F/O and weave in ends.

EARS (make 2) yellow with the 5.0mm hook
  Rnd 1: 4sc in Magic Ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (14)
  Rnd 7-9: sc in each sc around (14)
F/O and weave in ends.

HORNS (make 2) beige with the 5.0mm hook
  Rnd 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (9)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc around (9)
  Rnd 5: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around (6)
  Rnd 6-9: sc in each sc around (6)
 F/O and weave in ends. Stuff moderately.

BRAIDS
Cut 18 pieces of yarn (9  for each earflap) about 30 inches long. Fold each bunch in half and push the folded end through an opening in the bottom of each earflap. Pull the unfolded ends through the loop and pull tight. Braid the strands and tie a knot to secure the braid. Complete the second braid the same way.


ASSEMBLY
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  Sew the mouth piece in the bottom center part of the beanie. The buttons are sewn three rows up the mouth piece and 2" apart.
   Ears are sewn on top 3.5" apart and the bottom of the ears are folded to give them the bent look. The horns are sewn in the center of the ears.
  Nostrils are made from yellow felt and glue in place or sewn.

- Janet Carrillo
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (December 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

December 9, 2011

Agent P from Phineas and Ferb

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  I had been searching for patterns for Perry as Agent P, Phineas and Ferb to make for my son. I came upon this seller in etsy.com; WigglyFrog. When I saw how amazing her amigurumis look; I knew I had to buy the patterns. But I never purchased patterns before so I decide to buy Agent P first and see how well the pattern was written. I found the pattern to be over all amazing since its well explain and it also has several images to guide you through when assembling him. Love it. :) Will definitely buy the Phineas and Ferb patterns later in the future.
  Phineas and Ferb is our favorite cartoon. Perry...well he's our absolutely favorite character out of them all. I thought that this plushie will be a great Christmas gift for my little boy. I had to make him while he was in school so he wouldn't ask "what are you making?".
- Janet Carrillo

December 6, 2011

Flowery Beanie

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By JC Designs
Navy blue with Beige
  Recently my sister and I started our own little store selling clothes. I thought since the weather is starting to get cooler I could make some beanies and sell them. I'm going to start off by making two beanies and if they sell then I'll make more in various colors.
  This is a really simple beanie that even a beginner could handle. You can make it in a solid color or change colors after every round to make stripes. :)

SIZE
3-5 years old

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 4.5mm
*Crochet hook size 5.0mm
*Worsted weight yarn: main color 50grs.
*Worsted weight yarn: contrasting color approx. 18yds
*1 medium Button
*Stitch Markers

GAUGE
  At the end of round 8, laying flat = 6 inches in diameter. Don’t forget to check your gauge. :)

PATTERN NOTES
  This beanie is crochet in continuous rounds. Do not sl st at the end of rounds.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

BEANIE (main color) 5.0mm hook
  Rnd 1: 7hdc in Magic Ring (7)
  Rnd 2: 2hdc in each hdc around (14)
  Rnd 3: hdc in next hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (21)
  Rnd 4: hdc in next 2hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (28)
  Rnd 5: hdc in next 3hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (35)
  Rnd 6: hdc in next 4hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (42)
  Rnd 7: hdc in next 5hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (49)
  Rnd 8: hdc in next 6hdc, 2hdc in next hdc around (56)
  Rnd 9-14: hdc in each hdc around (56)
  Rnd 15: sc in each hdc around (56)
  Rnd 16-20: sc in each sc around (56)
  Rnd 21: sl st all around (56)
F/O, secure and weave in ends.

FLOWER (starting with contrasting color) 4.5mm hook

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around, join by sl st to first sc (8)
  Rnd 3: (ch 2, sl st in next sc) repeat all around then join round with sl st (8 chain spaces)
  Rnd 4: in each chain space make... sl st, ch 1, 2dc, ch 1, sl st. Complete the round with sl st into the first sl st (8 petals)
F/O, secure and weave in ends. Change to main color.
  Rnd 5: Holding flower facing you, take your hook to the back of the work & insert it in the first chain made in round 3. Make sl st in the chain, ch3, sl st in the first chain underneath the next petal. Repeat 7 times & complete the round with sl st into first sl st (8 chain spaces)
 Rnd 6: into each ch sp make... sc, ch 1, 3tr, ch 1, sc. Complete round with sl st into first sc. (8 petals)
F/O, secure and weave in ends. Change to contrasting color.
  Rnd 7: just like in round 5 take your hook to the back of the work and sl st in the fist post of the first petal created in round 5, ch 4, sl st in next post. Repeat 7 times & complete the round with sl st into first sl st (8 chain spaces)
  Rnd 8: in each ch sp make... sc, ch 1, 5tr, ch1, sc. Complete the round with sl st into first sc.
F/O, secure and weave in ends.

- Janet Carrillo

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (December 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

December 1, 2011

Mary-Jane Slippers

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I wanted to take this picture without my socks since I ♥ my tattoo. I wanted to show it off. :)
  I haven't made myself anything in awhile. Since its starting to get cold, I decide to make myself some slippers. If my feet are not well cover when its cold my right leg starts hurting cause I hurt my leg when I was 15yrs. old while playing soccer.
  I search slippers in Ravelry and found these real cute ones; the Mary-Jane Slippers. They're real easy to make even a beginner could crochet these. Each slipper is made in one piece, so there are no seams and its done in single crochet. I finish mine in about an hour. I absolutely love them that I'm going to be making a few more pairs for myself and some for my sister since she love them as well. :)
- Janet Carrillo

November 11, 2011

Yoshi Beanie (knit)

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By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"
Yellow Yoshi from New Super Mario Bros. Wii

  My other nephew ask me to make him a beanie but with Yoshi. I decide to create a pattern for it since I found none and well here it is for you to make. (Note: I made the pattern today. I still haven't made the beanie so theirs no picture but once I finish it I would uploaded here. Picture up.)
  This pattern can either be knitted when making the hat or duplicate stitched on afterwards; the choice is yours. (I duplicate stitch mine. It's really simple to do.)

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
age 5 - adult

MATERIALS
*Double pointed Needles: 3.0mm & 3.75mm
*50g of Main Color (worsted weight)
*Small amounts of the following (worsted weight): Green, White, Black,Orange & Red
*Tapestry Needle


Note: The grid lines on the pattern graph may look uneven on your monitor but will print out evenly.

Hope you enjoy your new beanie.
- Janet Carrillo

Yoshi and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (November 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Frog Mario Beanie (knit)

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By JC Designs
  Just a few days ago I finish knitting this Bowser Beanie for my son. It was my second knitting project, I think it looks amazing. One of my nephews saw my son's Bowser beanie and ask me to make him a beanie but with Frog Mario from Super Mario Bros. 3. I decide to create a pattern for it since I found none and well here it is for you to make. (Note: I made the pattern today. I still haven't made the beanie so theirs no picture but once I finish it I would uploaded here. Picture up.)
  This pattern can either be knitted when making the hat or duplicate stitched on afterwards; the choice is yours. (I duplicate stitch mine. It's really simple to do.)

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
age 5 - adult

MATERIALS
*Double pointed Needles: 3.0mm & 3.75mm
*50g of Main Color (worsted weight)
*Small amounts of the following (worsted weight): Green, White, Black, Beige
*Tapestry Needle

Note: The grid lines on the pattern graph may look uneven on your monitor but will print out evenly.

Hope you enjoy your new beanie.
- Janet Carrillo

Frog Mario and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (November 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

November 10, 2011

Frog Beanie with Earflaps

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By JC Designs
Frog Beanie being model of by one of my son's stuff animal. :)
SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
newborn - 18 months old

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 5.5mm
*Worsted weight yarn: Light Green (50g), Dark Green, White
*Felt: Black
*Stitch Markers
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread

PATTERN NOTES
  Their's no need to chain when going to the next round.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

SHAPING THE BEANIE
  Rnd 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 9: sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc around (54)
Sizes 6-12 months:
  Rnd 10:  sc in next 8sc, 2sc in next sc around (60)
  Rnd 11: sc in next 9sc, 2sc in next sc around (66)
Sizes 12-18 months:
   Rnd 12: sc in next 10sc, 2sc in next sc around (72)
   Rnd 13: sc in next 11sc, 2sc in next sc around (78)
All Sizes:
  Rnd 10-20 (12-22) (14-24): sc in each sc around (54 or 66 or 78)
Place marker at  16 and 35 sc (21 & 49) (24 & 55). F/O and weave in ends.

SHAPE EARFLAPS
  Row 1: Join the yarn at first marker with sl st, ch1, sc in next 11sc, ch1, turn (12)
  Row 2: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 8sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 3: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (10)
  Row 4: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 5: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (8)
  Row 6: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 7: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (6)
  Row 8: dec over next 2sc, sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 9: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 10: sc in each sc across, ch1, turn (4)
  Row 11: dec over next 2sc twice (2)
F/O and weave in ends.
Join yarn at the second marker with sl st. Repeat above for the second earflap.

CONTRAST EDGING
Join CC at any st along the edge with sl st. Sc around the entire edge including the earflaps. F/O and weave in ends.

EYES: light green (make 2)
  Rnd 1: 8sc in Magic Ring (8)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (16)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 4: sl st around (24)
F/O and weave in ends.

White part of the eye: (make 2)
  Rnd 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
F/O and weave in ends.

BRAIDS
Cut 18 pieces of yarn (9 for each earflap) about 30 inches long. Fold each bunch in half and push the folded end through an opening in the bottom of each earflap. Pull the unfolded ends through the loop and pull tight. Braid the strands and tie a knot to secure the braid. Complete the second braid the same way.


ASSEMBLY
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  Sew the white part of the eye to the green one. Black circle is cut out of felt and its glue on or sewn in place. Place the eyes on top of the beanie. Space them 3" apart from each other.
- Janet Carrillo

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (November 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

November 1, 2011

Bowser amigurumi

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This particular Bowser is modeled off of the more recent version of Bowser (Super Mario Bros. Wii)
  My son been asking me to make him Bowser. Plus I had to make him since he's the main evil guy in the Mario Bros. series. I had been searching for him for months and found some amazing Bowser’s but no patterns for them. I was going to try to make him myself but I found two patterns for him in Ravelry. I decided to make Shelly Hedko's pattern since it look way better. She did an amazing job designing it.
  Assembling the pieces together was a bit complicate it since theirs so many pieces to keep track of. She doesn't go into much detail on how to assemble him. (At the moment though, she's  making another Bowser so she can take pictures of it as she assembles him and put then in her blog.) But since I been making amigurumis since I started crocheting; I eventually figure it out. I did modify the pattern a bit since some pieces (body and belly) I found them to be too small but overall it's amazing pattern. If you been looking for a Bowser pattern this is the one to make. Here's the link to it.
  I just love how he turn out. My son absolutely loves him, he's his new favorite stuff toy.

- Janet Carrillo

October 30, 2011

Hello Kitty amigurumis as center pieces

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  About a month or so ago I made some Hello Kitty's for a friend. She had seen some of the stuff that I crochet for my son on Facebook and had ask me if I could make her 8 Hello Kitty's. She wanted to use them as center pieces for her daughters 4th birthday. So I made them for her.
  Today I log into Facebook and noticed that yesterday was her daughters birthday and she had put pictures up. I wanted to share with everyone one of the pictures of the center pieces.
I made the Hello Kitty's and she place her in these box thingys she made.
- Janet Carrillo

October 29, 2011

New name & layout

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  I decide to change the name of my blog, it's still going to be about crocheting. I wasn't happy with the name "Janet's Crochet Goods & more..."  When I started my blog I had so many cute names that I wanted to name it. Once I started googling every single one of them to see if they where available; I came to find out that they where all already taken.
  Today I decide to ask the people of Ravelry to help me out choose a name and came up with the name "damn it Janet, let's crochet".   I thought it was cute. It reminded me of when I was in high school. My sister and some of my friends will always say to me damn it Janet cause of the movie "Rocky Horror Picture Show". I thought that name suited me well. Thanks for helping me out.
  While I was changing the name I thought I'll give it a new look. I hope you enjoy my blog.
- Janet Carrillo

October 13, 2011

Petey Piranha

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By JC Designs
  Petey is a large, powerful Piranha Plant. He's the result of mutation. Whereas normal Piranha Plants usually grow from pipes, Petey's leaves and roots have grown into foot-like and arm-like appendages. He can also use his leaves to fly around in the air. Petey sports a pair of white-spotted red briefs. Although Petey does not speak, he does make some growling, drooling, and licking noises, which translate into actual speech.

SIZE
Approx. Height 13"

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 4mm
*Worsted weight yarn: Red, Light Green, Yellow & Orange
*Felt: White
*Fiberfill
*Tapestry Needle
*Sewing Needle
*Matching Thread
*Hot Glue (optional)


PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.


HEAD (red)
  Rnd 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 9: sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc around (54)
  Rnd 10: sc in next 8sc, 2sc in next sc around (60)
  Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (60)
  Rnd 13: sc in next 8sc, dec over next 2sc around (54)
  Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (54)
  Rnd 15: sc in next 7sc, dec over next 2sc around (48)
  Rnd 16-18: sc in each sc around (48)
  Rnd 19: back loops only for this round dec over next 2sc around (24)
  Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (24)
  Rnd 21: dec over next 2sc around (12)
NOTE: It's gonna be a little holey on the decreases from round 19-21 but it's alright since this is the front part that gonna be cover with felt and the lips. So the fiberfill wont show through or come out.
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff moderately firm while shaping as you go along.

  Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 23: dec over next 2sc around (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


LIPS make 2 (light green)
  Rnd 1: 4sc in Magic Ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 6-17: sc in each sc around (12)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff moderately firm while shaping as you go along.
  Rnd 18: sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc around (10)
  Rnd 19: sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc around (8)
  Rnd 20: sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc around (6)
  Rnd 21: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around (4)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the lips nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


PETALS (starting with yellow)
  Picking up the stitches rnd: On the head between round 11 & 12 where going to be picking up the stitches to make the petals. sl st into the 1st stitch, chain 4, sl st in to the 5th stitch... Continue this process until you get to the 1st sl st. The final loop sl st it into the 1st sl st. (12 4-chain loops)
NOTE:While picking up the stitches and making chains try to do this as tightly as possible, we don't want the loops to be to loosely.
  Petal rnd 1: (sc, hdc, dc, 3tr, dc, hdc, sc) in each 4-chain space around, in the last stitch change to orange yarn.
  Petal rnd 2: sl st into the next 3 stitches, *sc in the next 3, sl st into the next 6 stitches* repeat from * to * all the way around until you get to the first sl st of this round.
F/O,Secure and weave in ends.


BODY (staring with red)
  Rnd 1: 8sc in Magic Ring (8)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (16)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (32)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (40)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (56)
  Rnd 8-13: sc in each sc around (56) in the last stitch change to light green yarn
  Rnd 14: sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc around (48)
  Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (48)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping as you go along.
  Rnd 16: sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc around (40)
  Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (40)
  Rnd 18: sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc around (32)
  Rnd 19-20: sc in each sc around (32)
  Rnd 21: sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc around (24)
  Rnd 22-25: sc in each sc around (24)
  Rnd 26: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around (16)
  Rnd 27-32: sc in each sc around (16)
F/O. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the body nicely. Do not close the opening. Secure and weave in ends.


LEGS make 2 (light green)
  Rnd 1: 4sc in Magic Ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (14)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (16)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 9: sc in next 8sc, 2sc in next sc around (20)
  Rnd 10: sc in next 9sc, 2sc in next sc around (22)
  Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (22)
F/O. Stuff firmly the legs. Secure and weave in ends.


LEAVES/ARMS make 2 (light green)
  Rnd 1: ch 16, skip 1 ch, sc in next 2ch, hdc in next 2ch, dc in next 2ch, tr in next 5ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next 2ch, sc in next ch. working on opposite side sc in same ch, hdc in next 2ch, dc in next ch, tr in next 5ch, dc in next 2ch, hdc in next 2ch, sc in next 2ch, sl st to join on first sc.
  Rnd 2: sc in the same stitch you sl st, ch 2, sl st in the top of the sc, sc in same st, sl st in next 2sts, hdc in next st, ch 2, sl st in the top of the hdc, hdc in the same st.
Do this process all the way around. In the very last one you wont be able to sl st twice just sl st once. F/O, secure and weave in ends.


ASSEMBLY:
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  Remember the decreasing part of the head goes in the front, where we're going to cover it with felt. You can either glue the felt in place or sew it on. See pictures below for placement of the felt and lips. Sew the pieces together with matching thread/yarn.

This is from the piranha plant but it's the same process on how to place the pieces together.
  Sew the head to the body. Legs on the bottom of the body and the leaves/arms on the side of the body. See pictures for guidance.
  You want to make several small white circles with felt. Place them how ever you like in the red briefs and on the head (in the front and back of the petals). You can either glue them in place or sew them on.
  Cut out small triangle for the teeth. Same as the white spots glue them or sew them on.


Hope you enjoy your new plushie.
- Janet Carrillo

Petey Piranha and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (October 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

October 8, 2011

Piranha Plant

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By JC Designs
SIZE
Approx. height 11.5"

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 4mm
*Worsted weight yarn: Red, Light Green, Black, White
*Felt: White
*Fiberfill
*Tapestry Needle
*Sewing Needle
*Matching Thread
*Pinto Beans
*Pipe Cleaners
*Hot Glue (optional)


PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but keep in mind that your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.


HEAD (red)
  Rnd 1: 6sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 9: sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc around (54)
  Rnd 10: sc in next 8sc, 2sc in next sc around (60)
  Rnd 11-12: sc in each sc around (60)
  Rnd 13: sc in next 8sc, dec over next 2sc around (54)
  Rnd 14: sc in each sc around (54)
  Rnd 15: sc in next 7sc, dec over next 2sc around (48)
  Rnd 16-18: sc in each sc around (48)
  Rnd 19: back loops only for this round dec over next 2sc around (24)
  Rnd 20: sc in each sc around (24)
  Rnd 21: dec over next 2sc around (12)
NOTE: It's gonna be a little holey on the decreases from round 19-23 but it's alright since this is the front part that gonna be cover with felt and the lips. So the fiberfill wont show through or come out.
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff moderately firm while shaping as you go along.

  Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 23: dec over next 2sc around (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the head nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


LIPS make 2 (white)
  Rnd 1: 4sc in Magic Ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (6)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (8)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 6-17: sc in each sc around (12)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff moderately firm while shaping as you go along.
  Rnd 18: sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc around (10)
  Rnd 19: sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc around (8)
  Rnd 20: sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc around (6)
  Rnd 21: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around (4)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the lips nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.


PIPE (light green)
  Rnd 1: 8sc in Magic Ring (8)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (16)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (32)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (40)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (56)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (64)
  Rnd 9: back loops only for this round sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc around (56)
  Rnd 10-22: sc in each sc around (56)
  Rnd 23: front loops only for this round sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc around (48)
  Rnd 24-26: sc in each sc around (48)
F/O, secure and weave in ends.


Stem (light green)
  Rnd 1: 8sc in Magic Ring (8)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (16)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 4: back loops only for this round sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around (16)
  Rnd 5-26: sc in each sc around (16)
F/O, secure and weave in ends.


lets call this SOIL (black)
  Rnd 1: 8sc in Magic Ring (8)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (16)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (32)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (40)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (56)
F/O, secure and weave in ends.


LEAVES make 2 (light green)
  Rnd 1: 4sc in Magic Ring (4)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (8)
  Rnd 3: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around(14)
  Rnd 6-15: sc in each sc around (14)
At this point you can add 4 pipe cleaners inside the leave and glue them in place. Cut them to the desire length. The pipe cleaners will help bent the leaves nicely.
  Rnd 16: sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc around (12)
  Rnd 17: sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc, around (10)
  Rnd 18: sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc around (8)
F/O, secure and weave in ends. Flatten leaves and do not stuff.


ASSEMBLY:
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  Fill the pipe with beans half way and the other half with fiberfill. Leave about half an inch not fill.


  The "soil" place it inside the pipe and sew the two pieces together with matching thread/yarn.


  The stem you want to put something sturdy inside. I put several pipe cleaners inside. The pipe cleaners will help the stem to bent in different directions. You want to place the stem right in the center of the "soil" and sew it in place with matching thread/yarn.

  The leaves, while we crochet them we put pipe cleaners inside. If you didn't, put some inside. Sew the leaves on both sides of them stem. You can bent your leaves whoever you want.

  Remember the decreasing part of the head goes in the front, we're going to cover it with felt. You can either glue the felt in place or sew it. See pictures below for placement of the felt and lips. Sew the pieces together with matching thread/yarn.


  Sew the stem in the center of the head, just like in the pictures. Once sewn you can bent the stem with the head.

  With white felt cut circles and glue them around the head.
  Cut small triangles for the teeth and glue them in place.

Hope you enjoy your new plushie.
- Janet Carrillo

Piranha Plant and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (October 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

September 28, 2011

Tunisian Crochet Mario Pillow

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MATERIALS
•Tunisian Crochet hook size 4.5mm
•DK weight yarn
•Tapestry needle
•Fiberfill
•Measuring tape


* First Tunisian Crochet Project *
  Thanks to Another Kay Jones for inspiring this project. I had already made my son a Mario blanket and thought this will go great with it. Plus I let my son pick out the characters he wanted, so he's going to love it when it's done. :) I'm going to be making him another pillow but with different Mario characters so he can have two.
  I made the charts on Microsoft Excel except for Goomba, I copied that one from Another Kay Jones and the others from doing a Google search and making them into 8-bit graphs. If you want to use different characters, there are plenty to be found on the web by searching for 8-bit Mario characters or anything along those lines.
  When working from these graphs you gotta keep in mind that one square equals one stitch, the amount of stitches you need on your hook needs to be one more than the amount of squares you need.
Ex: On the small graphs theirs 32 so I need to chain 33 stitches.
  Since I don’t know how to add Microsoft Excel files on here, I have just put the images up. If you would like me to e-mail you the Excel files, feel free to contact me. (Links on how to contact me are on the upper left hand side).
  To save on sewing (which I’m not great at), I made the character squares two at a time, so I crocheted the Goomba and Boo as one piece, with the color change half way, then I did the Blooper and Bomb-Omb as one piece. Then whip stitch the two pieces together. I use whip stitch when sewing the whole pillow together.

A site and videos on how to Tunisian Crochet
-An Introduction to Tunisian Crochet; it has images to show you how to while your reading. Great site, this is the one I use to learn.
-If your more of a video person rather than reading then this video is great for you.
-To bind off your work watch this video.
-For color changes watch this video.

Tips
-On the basics tutorial video, it says for the last stitch of the forward pass, put the hook through the two end stitches. Cause if you don't and when its time to sew them together the edges are gonna look holey. Just in case this happens to you. Simply use the same color thread and sew it so it wont look so obvious.
-On the color changes, don’t pull the threads too tight. If you’re doing a square with a lot of color changes start a new yarn thread cause if you keep pulling them the square its gonna get smaller as you continue making it. (This happen to me with the first square)
-Measure! Measure! Measure! You don't want your square to look uneven.

8-bit Graphs
  Go ahead and use the graphs if you want these characters. :)

Boo 32x32
Bomb-Omb 32x32
Blooper 32x32
Super Mushroom 64x64






















- Janet Carrillo

September 27, 2011

Stitch Markers

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  These stitch markers are a fun alternative to plain old stitch markers. They are a fun project to add some fun to your project or as a gift for a crocheter/knitter you know. Like jewelry for your crocheting/knitting! =) Plus this isn’t too difficult or time consuming.

Materials
•Leverback Earrings (crochet) or Split Rings (knitting)
•Head Pins (2 inches in length)
•An assortment of Beads
•Round-nosed Pliers
•Wire Cutters
  I went to this store where they sell only beads and all the accessories needed to make bracelets, necklaces, earrings, keychains, etc. I have past by this store several times before when I gone to ModaTelas (where I buy yarn) but never when in. Today I check it out and WOW! they have a HUGE selection of beads. While I was browsing, I decide to buy some materials to make stitch markers.
  Only cost me $85MXN ($6.90USD) for all the materials you see in the first image. I made 22 fabulous stitch markers and I still have enough materials to make at least another 15. I love the way they turn out. Plus it's cheaper than eBay or Etsy, LOVE it. :)
Stitch markers for crochet
Stitch markers for knitting
Have a wonderful day and see you next time. :)
- Janet Carrillo

September 20, 2011

Granny Square Raccoon Mario blanket

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My son loves Mario and I wanted to make this HUGE surprise for him.

Size
Approx. 62" x 59" (5.17ft. x 4.92ft.)

Materials
•4.5mm crochet hook (to crochet border)
•5.0mm crochet hook (to crochet squares)
•315yds worsted Red yarn
•892yds worsted Black yarn
•429yds worsted Tan yarn
•1370yds worsted Royal Blue yarn
•Tapestry needle

   I talk about this blanket in my introduction post but I wanted to go into a little more detail about it.
   This was my 8th crochet project I made; the granny square Raccoon Mario blanket. It was inspired by this Mario bedspread I seen on Ravelry but it was the old Mario (the one from the very first game). Even though Russ McAllister did an amazing job, I wanted a different Mario image to work on. After searching for days I found an image of the raccoon Mario that I like better and started working on it.
   I made this back in February '11 and finish in May '11. It took me quite awhile to finish since I was getting annoy of making granny squares. I made some Mario Bros. amigurumis in between. Even though, it got annoying of making approximately 670some squares the end result was amazing. Seeing my son's face light up of joy when I show him the blanket was priceless. :)
   The squares I made them 2"x2". Since it was my first time doing granny squares I had to search how to make granny squares on YouTube. Here's the video I use to learn; link. But if I would of known about Tunisian crochet then, I would of most definitely made it like that. Just three weeks ago, I learn about Tunisian crochet. *giggles*
Here's the 8-bit image I use to make the blanket. :)
   - Janet Carrillo

September 17, 2011

Whomp Plushie

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By JC Designs


SIZE
Approx size: Height 7.5"

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 3mm
*DK weight yarn: Gray (213yds), Black (2yds)
*Felt in small amounts: black, white & red
*Yarn needle
*Sewing needle
*Gray thread
*Fiberfill
*Pinto Beans or any other type of bean


PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.


BODY (gray)
  Row 1: ch 30, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and hdc in each ch across , ch1, turn (29)
  Row 2-31: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 32: front loops only for this row hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 33-35: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 36: front loops only for this row hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 37-67: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 68: front loops only for this row hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 69-71: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (29)
  Row 72: Place the two ends together. We’re going to slip stitch the two ends together but on the back piece where going to slip stitch into the front loops only. Slit stitch all the way across.
F/O, secure and weave in ends.


Image 1: Closing the two ends of the body together.

SIDES for the body to close it (gray) make 2
  Row 1: ch 6, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and hdc in each ch across , ch1, turn (5)
  Row 2-31: hdc in each hdc across, ch1, turn (5)
F/O, secure and weave in ends.


Image 2: You want to sew the sides to the body with matching thread or use the whip stitch. (I use matching thread).

HAND/ARM (gray) make 2
  Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5-11: sc in each sc across (24)
  Rnd 12: sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc around (18)
  Rnd 13: sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around (12)
  Rnd 14: dec over next 2sc around (6)
At this point you will want to stuff the hand moderately firm.
  Rnd 15-20: sc in each sc across (6)
F/O, secure and weave in ends. No need to close the opening.


FEET (gray) make 2
[Dec3 instructions: Instead of making a normal dec stitch, this is a decrease over 3 sc. In front loops only: insert yarn thru front loop of first sc, y/o pull through, insert through FL of second sc y/o pull through, insert through FL of third sc y/o pull thru, y/o pull through all loops on hook.]

  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring. join with sl st to first sc do not turn, continue as if for a ball (4)
  Rnd 2: ch 1, 3sc in same stitch as join, and in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc of round (12)
  Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, *3sc next sc, sc in next 2sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in last sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round. (21)
  Rnd 4: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next sc, *3sc  next sc, sc in next 4sc* repeat from * to * around to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 2sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round. (28)
  Rnd 5: ch 1, sc same st as join. sc in next 2 sc. *3sc next sc, sc in next 6sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 3 sc, Join with sl st to first sc of round (36)
  Rnd 6: ch 1, sc same st as join, sc in next 3sc, *3sc next sc, sc in next 8sc* repeat from * to * to last corner, end with 3sc in corner sc and sc in each of last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc of round (44)
  Rnd 7: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in each sc around, sl st to the first sc of round(44)
  Rnd 8: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc 5times, sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc 5times, sc in next 5sc, sl st to the first sc of round. (33)
  Rnd 9: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in each sc around, sl st to the first sc of round(33)
  Rnd 10: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in next 4sc, dec over the next 3sc, dec over next 2sc, dec over next 3sc, sc in next 3, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 3sc, dec over the next 3sc, dec over next 2sc, dec over next 3sc, sc in next 4, sl st to the first sc of round (23)
  Rnd 11-12: ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in each sc around, sl st to the first sc of round(33)
F/O, secure and weave in ends. No need to close the opening. Fill completely with just beans.



ASSEMBLY:
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  See picture for placement for arm/hand and feet. Eyes, mouth, tongue, teeth are constructed from felt. Sew them in place or glue them.

  I didn’t put no instructions on how to make the crease for the mouth or eyes cause your cutouts might be slightly bigger or smaller than mine. But basically all you need to do is chain several chains, measure your chains to see if it’s a perfect size if not add more or take some off some, then sc in each ch across just once and pin them in place and sew them with matching thread.
  With black yarn, chain stitch stripes on Whomp’s back. You can either make it look like mine or you can change it up a little. Then you want place the band aids (constructed from yellow felt) in a X shape. You can either sew them or glue them in place.
Hope you enjoy your new plushie.
- Janet Carrillo

Whomp and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (August 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.

Cheep-Cheep Plushie

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By JC Designs


SIZE
Apprx. Height 5” and width from the widest point 6”

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size 4mm
*Worsted weight yarn: Orange (57g), White (15g), Yellow (12g) and Beige (4g)
*Felt in small amounts: Black & White
*Yarn needle
*Fiberfill

PATTERN NOTES
  Gauge isn't all that important, but your hook and yarn choices should result in a fairly tight stitch so that the stuffing won't show through.
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches for that round or row.

BODY (starting with orange)
  Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
  Rnd 4: sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
  Rnd 5: sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
  Rnd 6: sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc around (36)
  Rnd 7: sc in next 5sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
  Rnd 8: sc in next 6sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
  Rnd 9: sc in next 19sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 10sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 19 sc (48)
  Rnd 10: *sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 5sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 2sc, 2sc in next sc, *sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 2times (54)
  Rnd 11-21: sc in next 21sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 11sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 22sc (54)
  Rnd 22: *sc in next 7sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc, *sc in next 7sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times (48)
  Rnd 23: sc in next 19sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 10sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 19sc (48)
  Rnd 24: *sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc, *sc in next 6sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times (42)
  Rnd 25: *sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, in last sc change to orange dec over next 2sc, *sc in next 5sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times (36)
  Rnd 26: *sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white, sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc, in last sc change to orange dec over next 2sc, sc in next 4sc, dec over next 2sc, sc in next 5sc (31)
  Rnd 27: *sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in next 3sc, in last sc change to white dec over next 2sc, sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc, in last sc change to orange *sc in next 3sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 2times, sc in last sc (25)
Begin stuffing at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly while shaping as you go along.
  Rnd 28: sc in next 11sc, in last sc change to white dec over next 2sc, sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc, in last sc change to orange sc in next 9sc (23)
  Rnd 29: sc in next 11sc, in last sc change to white dec over all 3 white stitches, in last sc change to orange sc in next 9sc (21)
See image 1
  Rnd 30: *sc in next 2sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 5times sc in last sc (16)
  Rnd 31: *sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 5times, sc in last sc (11)
  Rnd 32: *dec over next 2sc* repeat from * to * 5timessc in last sc (6)
F/O, leave a tail for closing. Add any bits of stuffing needed to finish shaping the body nicely. Weave tail through the final row and draw up tight to close. Secure and weave in ends.

Image 1: Decreasing over all 3 white stitches.

Image 2: Fin.



FIN (yellow)
  Rnd 1: ch 8, skip 1st ch, *sc in next st, ch 2* repeat from * to * 4times, turn
  Rnd 2: *sc, hdc, 2dc, hdc, sc* repeat in each ch2 loops, sl st in the end
F/O, weave in ends.




Image 4: Putting together hair pieces.
HAIR make 2 (yellow)
  Rnd 1: ch 11, skip 1st ch,*2sc in next ch* repeat from * to * all the way around, ch3, turn (20)
  Rnd 2: tr in next 4sc, dc in next 4sc, hdc in next 4sc, sc in next 8sc (20)
F/O, weave in ends.

On one of the hair pieces. The top part only & back loops only.
  Rnd 1: ch 1, hdc in next 10 sts, sc in next 10sts, ch1 turn (20)
  Rnd 2: Put together both of the hair piece and sl st on back loops only on top part and continue on to the side. F/O, weave in ends. Leave the bottom part open. sl st the other side. F/O, weave in ends. Stuff lightly.

MOUTH (beige)
  Rnd 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6)
  Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (12)
  Rnd 3: *sc in next 4sc, 2sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 2times (16)
  Rnd 4: back loops only for this round *sc in next 7sc, 2sc in next sc* repeat from * to * 2times (18)
  Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (18)
Image 5: How to form the mouth.

  ASSEMBLY:
  I highly recommend pinning all the pieces together before sewing anything to make sure you have all the pieces done right and that you get them in the positions you like best before sewing. It seems like alot of extra work, but this will save you ALOT of hassle.
  As I have show you in the previous pictures. Place fin on the back just like shown in image 2.
  Hair goes right on the middle of the top part. Align it right on the middle of the eyes.
  Eyes are constructed from felt. See pictures for guidance on how to get your eyes to look like.
  Mouth see image 5 for placement.
  The fins that go on the side of Cheep-Cheep, I sketch them out first before drawing them in the felt.

Hope you enjoy your new plushie.
- Janet Carrillo

Cheep-Cheep and Mario Brothers are copyright Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "JC Designs" (August 2011). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items may from this pattern.
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